When I had one repaired on my boat the guy who did it ground the laminate back a good few mm. Then built the GRP back up before re-gelcoating. He said if you don't the star crack will just re-appear.

Matching the colour will depend on what you're trying to match to but there's an art to it and you might find you need alot of different colours to get just the 'white' you need. I had a few smaller jobs done on the boat at the same time too and the cost was only around £150, he threw in a litre of matched gelcoat too for me to keep. I don't know where you are but I think this was him: Finish 1st Phone: Fax: Mobile: 51 Skype: Web: Email: Address: 69 Palfrey Heights, Brantham, Manningtree. CO11 1SG Fibreglass repair colour match specialist.

For all types of Fibreglass. I would seriously consider painting over the cracks with a polyurethane 2 pack paint. This is a resin in itself and can be quite viscous so it will enter the cracks and has very good adhesive qualities. The main problem will be getting the colour right. But then you have that problem with any gel coat and by not grinding out the cracks you have a much smaller area to paint.

You may be able to tint the paint with a universal type pigment or the paint shop may supply a little pigment as required to get the right colour. On the other hand if the hull is old and well damaged it might be time to repaint the whole hull. Good luck olewill.

You could try one of these kits: In a previous life I was a silk screen printer, we didn't have the pantone system that litho printers have for colour matching and so we had to do it all by eye. Whites can come in a multitude of shades. Take a good hard look at your gelcoat and try to decide what kind of 'white' it is (assuming your boat is white). Does it have a tinge of pink to it, or yellow (creamy) or is it blacky? Sounds weird, it's hard to explain but mine definately has a brighter, harder tinge, which would mean there's some (tiny amount) of black in it and no red, yellow or blue. This website is pretty helpful: Andrew told me to never use any abrasive less than 180, build the coat high and leave it proud, and always clean thoroughly around the area before you start otherwise you'll end up with a permanent witness mark.

May 10, 2011. I have an impact spider crack on the top side of my ufo 34, Whats the best way to repair? Do i grind the stress lines back to the laminate then fill with epoxy? How easy is it to get a colour match? I just dont want rain getting in.

The colour match is the hardest part, filling, shaping and polishing is easy enough. I did a couple of repairs this winter using the gelcoat mix I'd been given. Not as good as Andrews work but it passed. I have an impact spider crack on the top side of my ufo 34, Whats the best way to repair? Do i grind the stress lines back to the laminate then fill with epoxy?

How easy is it to get a colour match? I just dont want rain getting inI did such a repair to a well worn Colvic Victor about a month ago. With a fairly large spider crack on the topside about six feet aft from the bow.

First washed the area on the hull. Treated the area with oxalic acid solution to remove the staining.

Lifhtly sanded (400g) the area to remove the remaining marks. Tack ragged the area. I drilled a tiny shallow countersunk hole at the outer end of each crack to stop any spreading further. Then using an 18volt grinder with an extra thin disk I V'd out every crack. (took some time) Tack ragged away the dust.

I filled all the cracks with white gell coat thickened with silica. I needed two white gellcoat repair kit's containing - gellcoat, catylist and silica from the local chandlery to do the job. Epoxy cannot be used on the topside as it get's attacked with UV over time. The owner was not too concerned with an exact match as the hull was so bad elsewhere and the basic match was quite good.

He really wanted to make sure that all the cracks were sealed at as low a cost as possible and there was a time restraint for the boat being relaunched. When dry sanded the area back and repeated the tack rags, filling and sanding a couple of times more until the surface was flat. Used progressively finer wet and dry then polish. I was then asked to repair all the other cracks, bumps and marks on the hull. The original gell coat on that particular hull was reasonably thick in places so I got off with quite a lot of sanding.

I would think that a UFO would also have a fairly thick layer of gellcoat. The colour match is such that the crack cannot be seem without close inspection.

Product type: Silicone Alkyd Epoxy-Ester Copolymer Coating. Product benefits: High Solid content, low V.O.C., hard yet flexible film, high gloss with excellent gloss retention, self priming on many surfaces, self leveling film, excellent adhesion to prepared surfaces, resistant to many alkalis, highly water-resistant, resistant to chalking, fading & chipping, resists peeling & cracking, weather-resistant, resists the effects of high heat. Physical Characteristics: Viscosity: 85-90 k.u.

Dry to touch: 2-4 hours Weight solids: 70-72% Recoat: 12-48 hours Volume solids: 54-56% WT per gal: 10.1 (White) V.O.C.: 337 grams per liter Flash point: 105° F. Maximum WFT: 2 mils Recommended DFT: 3.4+ Coverage: 700-800 sq. Per gallon @ 1 mil dry (Covers 400 square feet per gallon with 2-3 coats) Thinner: is a must have with this product! Applying Revolution Marine Paint (SM-1000) Revolution Marine Paint does a better job protecting and keeping fiberglass, aluminum, steel and wooden surfaces looking good longer than typical marine enamels. It lasts as long or longer than two-part urethanes and will not chalk like typical epoxy. While gel coat and many marine enamels are quick to chalk and fade, require regular cleaning, waxing and buffing to maintain their appearance Revolution maintains its color and gloss longer.

It provides a bright, smooth 'lively' protective finish years longer. When impacted or abraded it will not crack or spider-web like epoxy or gel coat. It stays clean longer and scuffs are easily buffed to a high gloss finish. It is the first product of its kind recommended for use above and below the waterline on virtually any boat or vessel regardless of materials often eliminating the need for antifouling bottom paint in fresh water (it is not antifouling). It has been formulated to outperform both typical topside and antifouling bottom paints on trailered and boats in fresh water. Even better; it increases the speed of most vessels by as much as 10% saving money in fuel and time in transit! Independent test data confirms its spectacular performance, longevity and durability; achieving more than a 40 year lifespan in constant submersion accelerated durability testing.

The exceptionally beautiful finish must be seen to appreciate. The cured film has a unique soft, smooth glossy appearance; considerably smoother than typical paint yet slip resistant in nature! It is easy to apply, lasts longer and saves money in maintenance and on fuel. It provides a high level of corrosion resistance topside or under the waterline. It inhibits the growth of marine fouling organisms keeping surfaces clean and smooth. PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS Product type: Silicone Alkyd Epoxy-Ester Copolymer Coating. Product benefits: High Solid content, low V.O.C., hard yet flexible film, high gloss with excellent gloss retention, self priming on many surfaces, self leveling film, excellent adhesion to prepared surfaces, resistant to many alkalis, highly water-resistant, resistant to chalking, fading & chipping, resists peeling & cracking, weather-resistant, resists the effects of high heat.

Physical Characteristics: Viscosity: 85-90 k.u. Dry to touch: 2-4 hours Weight solids: 70-72% Recoat: 12-48 hours Volume solids: 54-56% WT per gal: 10.1 (White) V.O.C.: 337 grams per liter Flash point: 105° F. Maximum WFT: 2 mils Recommended DFT: 3.4+ Coverage: 700-800 sq. Per gallon @ 1 mil dry (Covers 400 square feet per gallon with 2-3 coats) SUNDRIES: Sandpaper-80 grit for repairs 120 grit for rough sanding-180 grit for finish sanding. Mohair or wool roller covers, roller frame, roller tray and natural bristle brushes. Rubber gloves, canister type air filter for spray applications. Thinner: is a must have with this product!

Cleaner: Recommend for fiberglass, aluminum, concrete and prepared steel surfaces. Where rust is evident use you may also use Primer: Aluminum, galvanized and Stainless: Use, or Fiberglass: use or Steel, iron & concrete: Wood: See.

Slip Resistance: For added slip resistance add 8 ounces, 1 lb Tred-Tex or Gaco-Grip. Clean up: Clean with Lacquer Thinner or Accelerate/Harden: See.

Refer to Application Instructions Sheet, Product Data Sheet, label directions or contact us for additional information. APPLICATION All applications should begin with the removal of hardware, ventilators, bang irons and decorative name plates.

After that, the steps to prepare a boat for paint or a clear coating are only slightly different from those taken with wood, fiberglass, aluminum or steel. The difference between an amateur and professional application is often preparation. The smart painter puts most of his effort into preparing the boat for painting. The old saying is true that 99% of a good paint job lies in preparation and 99% of paint failures are due to poor preparation.

This is a statistic you do not want applied to your project! Do not cut corners when preparing your boat for paint! Previously painted boats: Best results will be achieved when most or all old paints have been completely *removed and primer applied to all surfaces, however, paint in good condition may be cleaned and de-waxed with SM-695 Etching Cleaner then sanded with 100 grit sandpaper in preparation for paint. An orbital palm sander or dual-action rotary sander will be less strenuous than hand sanding. Sanding will reveal areas that are blistered or flaking requiring removal. Such areas should be repaired if needed and properly primed. Hand sand to feather the repair to the level of the rest of the existing paint for best results.

Scrapes, scratches and divots may be filled with painter's glazing compound prior to painting. Trowel it into the blemish with a putty knife allowing it to set up before sanding smooth. All repairs and glazing compounds should be primed and sanded before proceeding with paint. Preparation on Fiberglass & Aluminum: Loose scale, peeling or cracking paint, corrosion, dirt, grime, oil, grease and wax all must be thoroughly *removed. Always clean thoroughly before making any repairs or sanding.

Wax removal is critical and should be done with SM-695 Etching Cleaner or a commercial wax remover. Where silicone polishes are present be sure to use a blended solvent polish remover to remove silicone. A second application of cleaner is helpful. Once cleaned, gouges and scrapes may be filled with epoxy putty. Build up the epoxy above the surrounding surface so that it can be sanded smooth.

Epoxy filler is hard so power sanding is advised. A dual-action rotary sander achieves the best results however a good orbital palm sander is acceptable. Rough sand the patch with 80 grit then switch to 120 grit sandpaper to achieve the final contour. Once repairs have been completed sand the entire area to be refinished with 120 to 180 grit sandpaper then clean with a pre-paint cleaner or recommended solvent. Preparing Raw Wood (Unpainted): Bare wood should be sanded with 80 grit paper before the application of Primer. Select SM-664D Primer to fill, build and create a smooth easy to adhere to surface. It has an unusually high amount of solid material, sands beautifully and locks our air and moisture.

Recommend allowing primer to dry for 2-4 hours before sanding with 120 grit paper. Often repeated coats are applied to achieve a smooth finished surface. Repeated primer coats and sanding may be continued until the grain has been filled and the surface is completely smooth.

Recommend 180 grit sandpaper for use in finish sanding. The use of other primers is acceptable. Fasteners in wood hulls are always countersunk below the surface of the planks. It is necessary to fill these countersinks in order to achieve a completely smooth finish. Surfacing putties are preferred over epoxy or polyester putties because epoxy putties can be harder to remove should it ever become necessary to remove a plank for repair. Carvel planked boats require a seam compound. Traditional seam compounds are never applied until after the hull has received a primer base coat.

Traditional seam compounds should never be applied to bare wood, however, polysulfide seam compounds must be applied only to bare wood. Apply polysulfide seam compounds into the seam prior to applying primer. Preparing Wood (Previously Painted): Paint in good condition should be sanded with 120 grit paper to knock off the gloss. Orbital palm sanders or dual action rotary sanders make *sanding large areas much easier. Requirements Capture Tools. Sanding usually reveals paint that has blistered or flaked requiring scraping the hull and sanding to bare wood. Such areas should filled, primed and sanded smooth. The inevitable sunken fastener holes, scratches and dings should be filled with painter's glazing compound - not to be confused with glazing putty used to keep glass in home windows.

Marine glazing compound is a fine putty intended for repairing small surface blemishes prior to painting. Polar Express 3d Ita Download Yahoo. Apply to the blemish area with a putty knife, allow it to cure thoroughly then sand surface to a smooth finish. Deteriorating Paint should be completely removed from the hull before repairs or primer is applied.

Power sanding is preferred over paint remover. This process is referred to as 'wooding down.'

Once the old paint has been removed prepare the hull as if it were new bare wood. Preparation on Steel: Proper surface *preparation is vital. Previously painted surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned and free of residues, oily film, and loose paint chips.

All rust, loose scale and contaminates must be thoroughly *removed prior to the application of primer. Preparation should include wire brushing by hand, mechanical grinding and or sand blasting of all surfaces. Rust free and galvanized metals should be treated with. Once all surfaces have been carefully prepared, rust, oil, grease and contaminates removed, the application of recommended primer should be applied without delay to prevent new corrosion. Primer: Aluminum, fiberglass, existing epoxy and gel coat are 'hard to paint' surfaces requiring an etching primer.

Is recommended for use on all gel coat, epoxy, raw fiberglass and wooden surfaces. You will find the Etching Primer provides outstanding adhesion, build, sandability. Its use on aluminum and fiberglass result in better adhesion of the finish coat than can be obtained by any other process. It may applied with a brush, roller or sprayed. Using a roller speeds up the work and provides a higher film thickness than spraying. Apply a minimum of one evenly applied coat to all areas that will be painted. Film build is high making sanding surprisingly easy.

Use Etching Primer as filler by simply building it up with a brush, allowing it to dry then sanding it smooth. When spraying Etching Primer it will likely need to be thinned with.

Do not substitute with other thinners. We recommend using, as an intermediate primer coat before the application of Revolution. Epoxy primers, which produce superior hardness are well liked on steel and fiberglass.

Apply two or more coats of epoxy primer. Finish Coats: Fiberglass, Aluminum & Steel: Professionally applied spray coat applications yield superior results, however Revolution levels exceptionally well in brush and roll applications. Unless you are experienced with spray equipment the best way for the do it yourselfer is to apply Revolution is by roller coat. When properly thinned in appropriate temperatures (SM-101 Thinner 15%-25%) Revolution levels exceptionally well. It had a good defoamer 'bubble popping additive' so the need for tipping is eliminated. Aside from spraying, which offers the best film thickness control, rolling is often the best way to achieve the recommended wet film thickness, 2 mils WFT (Wet Film Thickness). The recommended DFT is 3.4 mils.

NOTE: Applications applied too thickly may not adhere or level properly, run, sag and take days, or even weeks to cure. Always adhere to the manufacturers recommended WFT and DFT (Dry Film Thickness)! Revolution must always be stirred or shaken thoroughly before use.

It may be brushed, rolled or sprayed utilizing conventional and HVLP spray equipment. The solid content is exceptionally high so thinning will be necessary in most applications. The amount of thinner required will vary depending on ambient temperature, type of equipment used, method of application, humidity, color and amount of control desired and tip size in spray applications. We suggest beginning with minimum dilution at first and increasing dilution as needed subject to your individual application requirements.

Revolution may be built up to achieve a higher DFT where desired. Two, three or more thin coats are acceptable to achieve the recommended DFT. Boot and bottom stripes should always be applied over top of the recommended DFT. For best results recoat within 24-48 hours or sand between applications.

Allow top coat film to cure thoroughly before allowing it to enter full service duty. The recommended minimum cure time is 7 days under most conditions. DO NOT allow newly applied paint to get wet for a minimum of 48 hours. The dry cured film may be wet sanded and buffed to remove runs and blemishes.

What should I watch out for? INCOMPATABILITY ISSUES: Revolution belongs to a classification of coatings referred to as 'long-oils'. While long oils may be applied over virtually any surface or existing coating they may NOT be over coated with products that include high percentages of lacquer, xylene, toluol or similar 'hot' solvents. Our guaranty is void unless applied at the recommended thickness and used only with recommended Supermarine cleaners, thinners, accelerator/hardener and primers. When painting over preexisting primer or paint be sure it has cured before proceeding. SOFTNESS OR WRINKLING: Strictly adhere to manufacturers recommended minimum and maximum WFT and DFT.

When Revolution has been applied too thickly the coating may not catalyze properly which may lead to extended dry and cure times, softness of the film or a failed application. Runs and sags: If you get runs or sagging it has most likely been applied to thick. This product may be different than what you may have used previously. Recommend doing a small test before committing to the entire project. Testing the product will give you a feel for the product resulting in fewer problems. DRYING PROBLEMS /SLOW CURING: Revolution is catalyzed by oxygen rather than chemically.

The full cure may take longer to achieve than expected. The curing process should be allowed to be completed naturally or with the addition of before entering full service duty or film failure may occur. When you cannot mark it with your fingernail you know it has cured enough to enter full duty service. When the film remains soft after 48 hours it has likely been applied too heavily.

Dark and MT colors are typically slower to dry and cure. Using SM-160 A/H forced drying (adding heat such as oven baking) or increasing air movement across the curing film are ways to speed dry and cure times. Allow more time (weeks if needed) until the film has cured.

If after several weeks the film is still soft it will likely require removal and replacement. The use of is optional. It's use increase hardness, chemical resistance and speeds cure times. Revolution (SM-1000) is a revolution in modern marine coatings technology. The single stage (no-mix) formula produces a remarkably attractive finish that must be seen to appreciate. It has a unique soft, smooth appearance yet it is deceptively hard and durable. The low odor formula produces a nontoxic finish that is forgiving and easy to apply.

It self-levels like no other marine paint in brush and roll applications and is easily sprayed. Independent test data confirms its spectacular performance; achieving 40+ year lifespan in accelerated constant submersion durability testing commissioned by Siemens and Westinghouse. The exceptionally smooth finish may improve vessel speed by as much as 14% saving fuel and time in transit. Independent tests confirm compelling increases in vessel speed and fuel economy. Chosen for use on the Queen Mary! Choose Revolution when you want to achieve an exceptionally smooth, highly attractive long lasting protective finish above or below the waterline. It offers outstanding adhesion, excellent leveling properties and gloss retention, high flexibility, hardness, UV and chemical resistance.

Withstands intense UV, high heat (400F), corrosive chemicals, acids, alkalis and staining agents. May be wet sanded and buffed. Acceptable for brush, roll or spray applications. Dry to the touch in 1 hour, recoatable in 6-12 hours - temperature dependant. Dries hard in 24 hours.

Dark colors may dry and cure slower. Sand between coats after 48 hours. Pot life: Not applicable. Covers approx. 400 square feet per gallon at 2 coats. See label and application instructions for further information.

Available in 90 colors, gloss and satin. May be applied to existing paint in sound condition without primer. Colors, excluding white and clear, are considered custom and therefore non-returnable. • Out performs Awlgrip for less money. • Features exceptional leveling properties. • Superior durability, appearance and gloss retention.

• Brush, roll or spray application. • Acceptable for long term water submersion. • Colorfast gloss retentive. • Withstands heat to 400F. • No-mix formula. • is a must have with this product! • 10 year guaranty.

Note: Darker Colors and Safety Colors containing MT or SC in the part number are an additional $5 which is displayed after choosing that color. Shipping: Ships within 2-4 days of order.